1. I have applied a Collage neutral (00, 00+ or 06) and 20 volume developer on a client with a high percentage of grey and the result is not as expected. Why is it translucent, iridescent or too cool / ash?
Collage naturals (00, 00+, 06) should not be used independently for grey coverage on higher percentages of grey (75-100%), always add a warm target shade. The percentage of neutral must be equivalent to the percentage of grey in the formulation.
For example 75% grey = 75% natural
25% = warm target shade.
2. After applying 6/59 (Dark Blonde, Mahogany Intense Red), why does the gray hair look transparent red or pink?
When coloring gray hair you must incorporate the appropriate amount of neutral (00, 00+ or 06) in your formula. For example:
25% grey = ¼ 6/06 + ¾ 6/59
3. How do I formulate for a client that is 100% grey, very resistant and wants to be a natural looking level 6?
First you must use 1 full tube (60 MLS) of 6/00+ (intense natural for resistant grey)
- Then add ¼ tube (15MLS) of a warm target shade that best represents the underlying pigment at level 6. For example: 6/65
- Mix with equal parts 1:1 20 volume developer for increased color deposition.
- The formula can be cut in half if less product is needed.
4. What are the three neutral series in Collage?
00 (cool neutral) 00+ (intense cool neutral for resistant grey) and 06 (warm neutral).
5. What is the processing time for Collage color?
30 minutes for normal grey coverage
Up to 40 minutes for higher percentages of grey
6. What is the mixing ratio for Collage?
For normal hair - 1 : 1.5
For very resistant hair and maximum deposit you can reduce the amount of developer - 1:1
7. I applied Red Motion /99 on level 5 hair and the result is not as intense as I had expected.
Red Motion is formulated for maximum intensity on virgin hair. You will obtain a more subtle result on previously colored hair.
8. Can Red Motion be used in intensify my red and copper formulas?
Absolutely! Begin by adding ¼ Red Motion to ¾ of the red formula. Increase if additional intensity is desired.
9. I used Collage Clair on my natural level 5 client and the result was not as I had expected.
Collage Clair must be used on a natural level 7 or lighter to achieve the results in the swatch book.
10. How do I formulate for grey coverage when I am using all Collage + colors?
When using ALL Collage + colors in your formula, you can use less neutral for grey coverage due to the intensity of pigment and greater deposition of color. For clients that are up 50% grey, ¼ (15MLS) of the formula should be a +neutral and ¾ (45 MLS) a +target shade. For clients that are 75 – 100% grey, ½ (30MLS) of the formula should be a +neutral and ½ (30 MLS) a +target shade. The mixing ratio is 1:1.5