Q: I have applied a Collage neutral (00, 00+ or 06) and 20 volume developer on a client with a high percentage of grey and the result is not as expected. Why is it translucent, iridescent or too cool / ash?
A: Collage naturals (00, 00+, 06) should not be used independently for grey coverage on higher percentages of grey (75-100%), always add a warm target shade. The percentage of neutral must be equivalent to the percentage of grey in the formulation.
For example 75% grey = 75% natural
25% = warm target shade.
Q: After applying 6/59 (Dark Blonde, Mahogany Intense Red), why does the gray hair look transparent red or pink?
A: When coloring gray hair you must incorporate the appropriate amount of neutral (00, 00+ or 06) in your formula. For example:
25% grey = ¼ 6/06 + ¾ 6/59
Q: How do I formulate for a client that is 100% grey, very resistant and wants to be a natural looking level 6?
A: First you must use 1 full tube (60 MLS) of 6/00+ (intense natural for resistant grey)
- Then add ¼ tube (15MLS) of a warm target shade that best represents the underlying pigment at level 6. For example: 6/65
- Mix with equal parts 1:1 20 volume developer for increased color deposition.
- The formula can be cut in half if less product is needed.
Q: What are the three neutral series in Collage?
A: 00 (cool neutral) 00+ (intense cool neutral for resistant grey) and 06 (warm neutral).
Q: What is the processing time for Collage color?
A: 30 minutes for normal grey coverage
Up to 40 minutes for higher percentages of grey
Q: What is the mixing ratio for Collage?
A: For normal hair - 1 : 1.5
For very resistant hair and maximum deposit you can reduce the amount of developer - 1:1
Q: I applied Red Motion /99 on level 5 hair and the result is not as intense as I had expected.
A: Red Motion is formulated for maximum intensity on virgin hair. You will obtain a more subtle result on previously colored hair.
Q: Can Red Motion be used in intensify my red and copper formulas?
A: Absolutely! Begin by adding ¼ Red Motion to ¾ of the red formula. Increase if additional intensity is desired.
Q: I used Collage Clair on my natural level 5 client and the result was not as I had expected.
A: Collage Clair must be used on a natural level 7 or lighter to achieve the results in the swatch book.
Q: How do I formulate for grey coverage when I am using all Collage + colors?
A: When using ALL Collage + colors in your formula, you can use less neutral for grey coverage due to the intensity of pigment and greater deposition of color. For clients that are up 50% grey, ¼ (15MLS) of the formula should be a +neutral and ¾ (45 MLS) a +target shade. For clients that are 75 – 100% grey, ½ (30MLS) of the formula should be a +neutral and ½ (30 MLS) a +target shade. The mixing ratio is 1:1.5
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